So after a long, unusual, and not too painful (but not that restful either, 
though the kids did sleep almost a full night’s sleep) the ferry began pulling into Pireaus (the major port connected to Athens by rail and bus) before 7am in the morning. There were a lot of bleary faces amongst the passengers…but the intensity of activity in the preparation and urge to get off was just the same. We took our time, trying to stay out of the press…but you also need to get off quick as they want to turn the ferry around fast for the outward bound journey.
One interesting aspect of the disembarkment was that there were a number of Greek orthodox church images – saints, Mary etc. on the wall in the “foyer” area of the ship (where we stood bewildered 9 hours before). I noted a number of the passengers going up and kissing the icons (actually the glass covering the icons) – I’m sure as a thankyou for a safe trip.
Off the ship (dodge those cars driving on, those driving along the pier, and the motorbikes etc.) the port was a hive of activity and to our eyes near chaos. However being the seasoned ferry travelers we were now (hah!) and knowing the layout of Pireaus better we followed the main body of foot passengers to the Metro (train) station. Of course that meant dragging bags and carrying backpacks plus additional bags (food and presents from Marika for instance) across, beside, and sometimes along the port road busy with morning traffic … with 2 tired kids.
In the metro we performed our usual well rehearsed manouevre when meeting a busy
transportation hub with 100s or thousands of people going about their business with purpose and certainty – we stood about uncertainly. Maria went off and bought tickets and we jumped on a train to whisk us into Athens and to the station closest to our hotel – Victoria station. That still left a walk of a kilometre or 2 through Athens streets to get to the hotel at 8am in the morning. We arrived hot (it was a fairly nice spring day) and tired.
The hotel people (Best Western Dore in Kypseli – highly recommended and just a bus ride into the centre) were wonderful. The plan had been to drop off our luggage and go sight-seeing till the room checkin time (noon), but they let us in within 5 minutes. Wonderful to have a shower and recuperate for half an hour.
Then, it was off to the big one – the Acropolis. Armed with our guidebook for Athens and the map from the hotel we grabbed a bus and rode it down past Syntagma to the Plaka area. Of course the bus trip was an experience in itself – crowded bus, crowded street (mopeds and bikes darting in and out) and bumpy ride. We had the common Greek (Athens?) experience – the extreme friendliness of a man who befriended us – telling us where to get off etc. – and the confusion and chaos of a million things going a million different ways. Seeing the Acropolis on the skyline as we approached the inner city was quite a sight and surreal feeling.
I’ve been careful to avoid comparison between Japan and Greece for all sorts of reasons but one parallel I noted again and again (when compared to oz) is the close juxtaposition of the modern world/life (of Athens or Tokyo) and the old world and culture of those places. In particular I’m talking about the physical “space” of the city – in Athens old archeological digs and uncovered sites can be found right next to cafes etc. Where Athens seems (to my amateur eyes) different to Tokyo is that the history goes back much further (in part that’s what you get when you build in enduring marble versus perishable wood [Japan]), and that it is layered – a site may have a Byzantine church, built on top of a Roman market, which sat on some older (less understood) site. On the other hand, in Japan the temples and shrines are still a part of modern people’s religious life – in Greece the archeological sites are a source of national pride and the primary income of the nation (tourism).
So the Acropolis is the highest point on the skyline in Athens and sits pretty much in the
“centre” of the city. The city itself has a number of hillsides inside the city, some green spaces, and surrounding hills, though it is also a sprawling concrete mass. The Acropolis is one of the best places to see the layout of the city. The Acropolis is chiefly the hilltop on which the temple of Athena, Erecthion etc. stand (go read about it if you’re interested), but also a region about the hillside, including a theatre, other temples etc. This later came as a surprise to me (because even the maps I’d looked at didn’t show the outlines of the hillside, just the relative locations and sizes of the attractions).
Anyway, seeing the Acropolis – the theatre, the Parthenon, and the Erecthion up close and in
person – is really a feeling that for me is indescribable. Further, you realize just how significant a world site this is when you hear the stories of the thinkers, movements and styles inspired by this architecture…but perhaps what brings it most home is to look down at the rocks you are walking on – they are polished so smooth in places from the million plus visitors each year, that you slip and slide dangerously on them. It is history that you can reach out and touch…but should you do so one of the unobtrusive (to then) wardens found at all the archeological sites will pounce with a stern “please don’t touch sir”.
By mid-afternoon we were still on the Acropolis, but the kids were flagging – no wonder. We happened to pass a tour group who’s leader really knew his stuff – lots of stories and explanations – snakes and the Erecthion, Poisiden and Athena’s competition, the angular tricks used on the Parthenon, etc. that we tagged along for 30 minutes while the kids waited near the main entrance.
Then, not to waste an opportunity it was over to the nearby Aeropagus Rock – a site with much
history also from ancient mystery rites, judgements of criminals, through to the 1st preaching and conversions by St. Paul (that led to the founding of the Christian church in Greece). This was history we could walk around on and get a good view of the Agora and parts of the Plaka.
Tired, hot, and thirsty we grabbed some rip-off drinks and icecreams from the cafeteria just outside the Acropolis exit. The lemon juice drink was interesting – totally unsweetened. Then down to nearby Hadrian’s arch – right beside a major roadway. Then another quite short walk to Syntagma and the parliament building there – home of the famous Evzone soldiers and their pleated “skirts” and pom-pommed shoes. They are said to be amongst the most handsome soldiers in the army…I guess its just
a matter of taste.
Worn out from a long day we jumped on a crowded bus for the trip back to the hotel. Observing on the map from the hotel it was some 10 minutes in when we realized we were on the wrong bus. Maybe it just describes a circuitous route we first thought. It turned out we had caught a 15, when we could/should have caught a 3, 5, or 13. We ended up out in a suburb somewhere, but had a quick word to the driver. Stay on the bus he explained (in Greek), he would take us back a place where we could catch the bus we needed. And that’s what we did while he popped into a local supermarket for a drink, then got the bus turned around and back down to a stop where we could get the right bus. Another example of the generosity of heart we have encountered so often here in Greece.
Finally back in the region of the hotel we grabbed a Souvlaki for dinner, then headed in for some note taking and much needed rest. Quite a day.
though the kids did sleep almost a full night’s sleep) the ferry began pulling into Pireaus (the major port connected to Athens by rail and bus) before 7am in the morning. There were a lot of bleary faces amongst the passengers…but the intensity of activity in the preparation and urge to get off was just the same. We took our time, trying to stay out of the press…but you also need to get off quick as they want to turn the ferry around fast for the outward bound journey.One interesting aspect of the disembarkment was that there were a number of Greek orthodox church images – saints, Mary etc. on the wall in the “foyer” area of the ship (where we stood bewildered 9 hours before). I noted a number of the passengers going up and kissing the icons (actually the glass covering the icons) – I’m sure as a thankyou for a safe trip.
Off the ship (dodge those cars driving on, those driving along the pier, and the motorbikes etc.) the port was a hive of activity and to our eyes near chaos. However being the seasoned ferry travelers we were now (hah!) and knowing the layout of Pireaus better we followed the main body of foot passengers to the Metro (train) station. Of course that meant dragging bags and carrying backpacks plus additional bags (food and presents from Marika for instance) across, beside, and sometimes along the port road busy with morning traffic … with 2 tired kids.
In the metro we performed our usual well rehearsed manouevre when meeting a busy
transportation hub with 100s or thousands of people going about their business with purpose and certainty – we stood about uncertainly. Maria went off and bought tickets and we jumped on a train to whisk us into Athens and to the station closest to our hotel – Victoria station. That still left a walk of a kilometre or 2 through Athens streets to get to the hotel at 8am in the morning. We arrived hot (it was a fairly nice spring day) and tired.The hotel people (Best Western Dore in Kypseli – highly recommended and just a bus ride into the centre) were wonderful. The plan had been to drop off our luggage and go sight-seeing till the room checkin time (noon), but they let us in within 5 minutes. Wonderful to have a shower and recuperate for half an hour.
Then, it was off to the big one – the Acropolis. Armed with our guidebook for Athens and the map from the hotel we grabbed a bus and rode it down past Syntagma to the Plaka area. Of course the bus trip was an experience in itself – crowded bus, crowded street (mopeds and bikes darting in and out) and bumpy ride. We had the common Greek (Athens?) experience – the extreme friendliness of a man who befriended us – telling us where to get off etc. – and the confusion and chaos of a million things going a million different ways. Seeing the Acropolis on the skyline as we approached the inner city was quite a sight and surreal feeling.
I’ve been careful to avoid comparison between Japan and Greece for all sorts of reasons but one parallel I noted again and again (when compared to oz) is the close juxtaposition of the modern world/life (of Athens or Tokyo) and the old world and culture of those places. In particular I’m talking about the physical “space” of the city – in Athens old archeological digs and uncovered sites can be found right next to cafes etc. Where Athens seems (to my amateur eyes) different to Tokyo is that the history goes back much further (in part that’s what you get when you build in enduring marble versus perishable wood [Japan]), and that it is layered – a site may have a Byzantine church, built on top of a Roman market, which sat on some older (less understood) site. On the other hand, in Japan the temples and shrines are still a part of modern people’s religious life – in Greece the archeological sites are a source of national pride and the primary income of the nation (tourism).
So the Acropolis is the highest point on the skyline in Athens and sits pretty much in the
“centre” of the city. The city itself has a number of hillsides inside the city, some green spaces, and surrounding hills, though it is also a sprawling concrete mass. The Acropolis is one of the best places to see the layout of the city. The Acropolis is chiefly the hilltop on which the temple of Athena, Erecthion etc. stand (go read about it if you’re interested), but also a region about the hillside, including a theatre, other temples etc. This later came as a surprise to me (because even the maps I’d looked at didn’t show the outlines of the hillside, just the relative locations and sizes of the attractions).Anyway, seeing the Acropolis – the theatre, the Parthenon, and the Erecthion up close and in
person – is really a feeling that for me is indescribable. Further, you realize just how significant a world site this is when you hear the stories of the thinkers, movements and styles inspired by this architecture…but perhaps what brings it most home is to look down at the rocks you are walking on – they are polished so smooth in places from the million plus visitors each year, that you slip and slide dangerously on them. It is history that you can reach out and touch…but should you do so one of the unobtrusive (to then) wardens found at all the archeological sites will pounce with a stern “please don’t touch sir”.By mid-afternoon we were still on the Acropolis, but the kids were flagging – no wonder. We happened to pass a tour group who’s leader really knew his stuff – lots of stories and explanations – snakes and the Erecthion, Poisiden and Athena’s competition, the angular tricks used on the Parthenon, etc. that we tagged along for 30 minutes while the kids waited near the main entrance.
Then, not to waste an opportunity it was over to the nearby Aeropagus Rock – a site with much
history also from ancient mystery rites, judgements of criminals, through to the 1st preaching and conversions by St. Paul (that led to the founding of the Christian church in Greece). This was history we could walk around on and get a good view of the Agora and parts of the Plaka.Tired, hot, and thirsty we grabbed some rip-off drinks and icecreams from the cafeteria just outside the Acropolis exit. The lemon juice drink was interesting – totally unsweetened. Then down to nearby Hadrian’s arch – right beside a major roadway. Then another quite short walk to Syntagma and the parliament building there – home of the famous Evzone soldiers and their pleated “skirts” and pom-pommed shoes. They are said to be amongst the most handsome soldiers in the army…I guess its just
a matter of taste.Worn out from a long day we jumped on a crowded bus for the trip back to the hotel. Observing on the map from the hotel it was some 10 minutes in when we realized we were on the wrong bus. Maybe it just describes a circuitous route we first thought. It turned out we had caught a 15, when we could/should have caught a 3, 5, or 13. We ended up out in a suburb somewhere, but had a quick word to the driver. Stay on the bus he explained (in Greek), he would take us back a place where we could catch the bus we needed. And that’s what we did while he popped into a local supermarket for a drink, then got the bus turned around and back down to a stop where we could get the right bus. Another example of the generosity of heart we have encountered so often here in Greece.
Finally back in the region of the hotel we grabbed a Souvlaki for dinner, then headed in for some note taking and much needed rest. Quite a day.
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