Travelogue, Post-Card Home, & Curio

The goal of this blog is to serve as a scrapbook of sights, thoughts and experiences that arise on the Barlow's travels. This is the 3rd in the series of "Spike & Maria's Excellent Travels" - the 1st being a record of their move from Canberra to Brisbane in 1991, and the 2nd being a record of their life in Japan between 1994 and 1996.

Our Itinerary

  • Till 8 March: Preparing (Australia)
  • 8 March - 2 April: Japan (Tokyo)
  • 3 April - 25 April: Greece (Santorini, Athens)
  • 25 April - 1 May: France (Paris)
  • 1 May - 3 June: USA (West Coast)
  • June 5 Onwards: Recovery!

8/5 - Flying High; Going Shallow



This day was our full day at Grand Canyon. The previous day we had ummed and ahhed about what to do with the day, and we were still uncertain in the morning.

After having breakfast in the room we headed over to the main lodge area for Maria do some some online tasks and to enquire about a helicopter flight over the canyon. It was possible for that day and while expensive was a once in a life-time opportunity,and one for which mum (thankyou) had given us extra money. So we were booked in for a 1:20pm flight.

Next we took a drive out along the eastern rim to a couple of the famous observation points along that way. As you'd expect, quite stunning. Before we knew it, it was getting near the time for the flight. So back we went through the park and out the southern exit, grabbed some mexican for lunch then headed over to the airport.

The flight business stands at the entrance to the airport and the helicopters can clearly be seen (and heard!) coming and going. Maria (who's idea the flight was) had been expressing nerves about the flight since mid-morning, and now hers and Grant's faces told a clear story... (which the video I shot shows clearly - drop by for a viewing sometime). Anyway, in we went, paid, and watched the 5-minute safety video. The thing that made me laugh and raised Maria's eyebrows was a casual statement that if the door of the chopper came open during flight not to panic and just tell the pilot.

We had each been weighed when paying for the flight and these values were used in assigning locations on the chopper. We were each given little plastic cards with a number on them, prior to going out on the field. Zoe got 1, and hence had the highly desirable position beside the pilot. Grant, Maria, I and 2 others were in back.

Up close the choppers appear small and fairly flimsey, and this feeling continues in flight where, similar to a plane encountering turbulence or airpockets, you can feel the chopper slip or shift unexpectedly at times. The route taken by the chopper was from the south rim across to the north at one of the widest points in the canyon. It certainly allows you to see far more of the canyon than you can see from a dozen rim locations and is a fascinating experience. I had the video, and shot nearly as much footage of Maria and Grant's faces as the scenery -they were that interesting to watch.

The biggest disappointment of the flight is that the chopper flies level and does not go down into the canyon. Ohhh well.

Back on the ground and Maria recovered from her queasiness we decided to head back to the rim and give one of the trails that descend into the canyon a go. There is a lot of information available about the different trails, round trip times, steepness, way stations etc. Its important to understand that the canyon is so deep that its repeatedly advised not to attempt to descend to the canyon floor and return in 1-day. If you're going that far you should camp overnight at Phantom Ranch. There's also many tales of walkers dying in the canyon (the most popularly used poster details a young female marathon athlete who despite her physical endurance still died), and these stories are found on posters at trailheads, in shops, etc. Further, the impressive exposure of the trails - the fact that in many (most) places you could simply step off and fall to your death...the place is that sheer -really had Grant in fear.

So its was about 3:30 or so that we got out to the trailhead of South Kaibab. This is rated as a very steep trail but excellent for views in the first mile or two of its length. So down we went - sloowly - withGrant hugging the inner wall. Personally, this is the thing I live for and love. I could happily spend a couple of months in this area exploring the different trails and the different vistas they reveal. So, for me it was frustrating to be in such a place and yet only "dip my toe" based on the rather short descent we made. Still, even the little we did was good for me in a deep way. Indeed, I think it was good for all of us, even much of Grant's fear had left him, though he was still extremely cautious.

After a long chat at the top with another walker, we headed back into the park centre and a different lodge to grab dinner (this one was far better and less like a poor school cafeteria). Then we headed over for the 7:30 park talk. This one on cutural aspects of the Hohokam indians. Unfortunately, while interesting intellectually, it consisted of many powerpoint slides of pottery and other artifacts, combined witha rather matter-of-fact delivery (which the previous night's was anything but). Then back to the lodge (hard to find a park because of work in the carpark). Now the kids are in bed and Maria is watching"Ninja Warrior" (a kind of weird obstacle course show from Japan that has been voice-overed and subtitled in English by the G4 station). Time for me to sleep - another longish drive tomorrow.

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